Shin-Etsu Silicones Presents Alternative Ingredient Silicones with Soft-Focus Benefits

As of October 2023, Regulation (EU) 2023/2055 restricts synthetic polymer microparticles on their own or intentionally added to mixtures with the aim of reducing the emission of microplastics in everyday products in order to protect the environment.

For leave-on cosmetic products, a ban for using microplastics will come into force as of October 2029 and in October 2035, color cosmetic products such as lip, nail products and make-up products will follow. Beyond driving an ecological transition in the cosmetic industry, this legislation will fuel development of innovative new products avoiding to fall under this regulation while helping to maintain the performance in cosmetic products consumers are expecting when using such products.

Addressing this search for alternative ingredients to microplastics head-on, Shin-Etsu Silicones Europe BV recently presented two new elastomer gels (KSG-16-SF and KSG-19-PF) and one innovative cellulose-based powder (X-52-7162) at In-Cosmetics Global.

Technical Seminar and Texture Bar Presentations

Shin-Etsu developed this range of products designed to match benefits such as increased viscosity and improved soft-focus. Premiering at a Technical Seminar and at their booth’s texture bar during the event, these high-performing ingredients were shown in a range of different formulations from skin-care to make- up and included:

KSG-16-SF: INCI: Dimethicone (&) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
This silicone elastomer has been optimized to provide maximum soft-focus and line blurring effects to effectively hide wrinkles and small imperfections of the skin. It also delivers a silky skin feeling and can also support in thickening of certain cosmetic formulations − offering good compatibility with silicones.

KSG-19-PF: INCI: Dimethicone (&) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
This silicone elastomer has been fine-tuned to provide a noticeable powdery sensation to cosmetic formulations for skin care and make-up. Primarily optimized for delivering a powdery skin feeling, it also provides a matte effect that reduces shine on the skin. Additionally, this silicone elastomer product can also serve as a thickening agent for certain formulations with good compatibility with silicones.

Notably, the benefits of both ingredients are demonstrated by soft-focus, shine measurements and visual tests. X-52-7162: INCI: Cellulose (and) Silica (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

This new modified cellulose powder features spherical cellulose particles with silicone rubber and silica coating on the surface. Compared to normal cellulose particles, friction and hardness are reduced and it has a smooth (soft) feel. It provides a soft-focus effect, helps to reduce wrinkles, pores, and other skin problems−resulting in a smooth and natural look.

The unique performance of this new ingredient in terms of providing soft-focus and line blurring to cosmetic formulations, was demonstrated in a water in silicone lotion. Additionally, Shin-Etsu’s new cellulose powder was tested on its own, but also in combination with the new silicone elastomers in a velvet lipstick. A synergistic effect for soft focus could be achieved when KSG-16-SF was combined with X-52-7162. Moreover, the powder was found to be not persistent according to OECD No. 301F testing, as the powder biodegraded more than 50%-60% within 60 days.